Inverness to John O’Groats
Ah, Scotland. There’s always a bit of nostalgia when I think about my birthplace and homeland. It therefore seems fitting that I write about her beauty here too, and the way that she touches my heart even from afar.
We landed at Inverness Airport on a beautiful summer’s day, ready to explore my roots. Our goal was to drive up and around the northernmost part of Scotland, also known as the North Coast 500 route, a place which I had never been to.
If you’re looking for people, busy places and commotion, then I don’t recommend this trip for you. But if you’re searching for that quiet loneliness that soothes your soul, look no further. The North Coast 500 is where you want to be. With its rugged landscapes, white sand beaches, and sheep crossing your single-track road, the northernmost part of Scotland might also be its most beautiful.
It’s called the North Coast 500 as it covers approximately 500 miles (roughly 800 kms) in its entirety. There are two ways of doing it, from east to west, or from west to east. Both routes start in Inverness. This part will cover the eastern part of the North Coast 500, from Inverness up to Dunnet Head.
You can technically do the entire North Coast 500 in a weekend like we did, but I’d suggest taking at least 3-4 days, as the scenery is just breath-taking.
North Coast 500 Highlights:
Go see where the Battle of Culloden took place, near Inverness. The last pitched battle which was fought on British soil was also the final confrontation of the Jacobite rising of 1745.
Do you like dolphins, or porpoises, as they’re called in these parts? Then head over to Rosemarkie Beach, where you might be lucky enough to spot some of these beautiful creatures. It’s best to go after low tide and is well worth a visit, as you get to witness a rare (and free) natural spectacle.
Visit Dunrobin Castle. Open annually from April to October, the castle was used as a naval hospital during World War I, and as a boys boarding school between 1965 – 1972.
Play a round of golf at Royal Dornoch Golf Club. This championship golf course is as wild and isolated as it is stunning, and has often been quoted as a must-play course. Scotland isn’t the home of golf for no reason now, is it?
If you’re a whisky lover, why not have a dram (or two) at the Old Pulteney in Wick? Formerly the herring capital of Europe, Wick is now home to the one of most northern single malt distilleries on the Scottish mainland. You can also learn a bit about whisky production on one of their daily tours. But perhaps you just want to buy a bottle or two to take home and enjoy…
No visit to the north of Scotland is complete without an obligatory stop to John O’Groats. However, I would highly recommend going to the northernmost point of the British mainland at Dunnet Head as well, as it is spectacular and far less touristic. Popular with bird watchers, it offers stunning views towards Orkney on a clear day.
Have a Drink in:
Grab a hot drink to go at the most northern café on the British mainland on your way to Dunnet Head. Try their homemade cakes or scones – absolutely scrumptious!
Eat in:
If you want outstanding fish and chips, then you must venture a bit off the main road to The Eating Plaice in Alness. You won’t regret the stop if you’re driving up towards Helsmdale or Wick. Be sure to ask for salt and vinegar on your fish supper – the Scottish way!
Stop by the Alexander Bain in Wick, named after the man who invented the electric clock, electric printing telegraph, and the fax machine. This classic pub will be one of the liveliest places you come across in these parts. It boasts a large menu and is great for a drink in the evenings too.
Sleep in:
One of the nicest B&B’s I came across in this part of Scotland, Randolph House B&B in Wick is charming and exudes cosiness and elegance. Shirley and Andrew are excellent hosts, and greet you with genuine warmth. Their delicious breakfast is just another incentive to stay here. Highly recommended.
Dunnet Head to Plockton
The second part will cover the northernmost part of the British mainland from Dunnet Head down to Plockton. The allure and charm of this area is indeed the fact that not many people have trodden this path. If you like serenity and wilderness, I recommend that you go here as soon as you can, before this magical part of the world gets discovered.
Best Places to Visit:
In my opinion, the beaches in this part of Scotland are its prettiest. White sand amidst dunes and turquoise or cobalt blue water, make for breath-taking stops along the single-track roads. If it isn’t raining, bring a thermos and a blanket and enjoy a nice cup of tea whilst watching the world go by. My favourites were Strathy Beach, Farr Beach and Clashnessie Beach.
Visit Tongue. One of the prettiest coastal villages in the far north of Scotland, Tongue was also a historic crossroads for Vikings, Picts and Gaels. Among the most notable attractions to see are the ruins of Castle Varrich, the historic seat of the Mackay Clan, which was built in the 11th century.
Interested in caves? Then check out Smoo Cave, near Durness. This large cave is set into the limestone cliffs and is unique within the United Kingdom. This is because the first chamber has been formed by the action of the sea, whereas the inner chambers are freshwater passages. It can be explored either by foot or by boat and is open 365 days a year.
Tania’s tip: check out the waterfall through the cavern roof – very impressive!
For more stunning landscape, take the slightly longer route down south via the Stoer Peninsula where more lonely, white sandy beaches await you. Then stop by the charming village of Lochinver and try to spot some seals. The impressive Suilven, one of Scotland’s most iconic mountains, rises in the background behind it.
To finish up, head south past Ullapool to the picturesque coastal village of Plockton, the “Jewel of the Highlands”. This delightful little village offers stunning views of Loch Carron and is dotted by palm trees, due to the warmth brought by the Gulf Stream. It is without a doubt one of the prettiest places I have seen in Scotland.
Eat in:
The Kylesku Hotel. This award-winning restaurant specialises in seafood, and the menu changes depending on the catch of the day. They also offer locally-sourced meat dishes, and have a mouth-watering vegetarian section. Why not book a table and try it out yourself?
The Shorehouse Seafood Restaurant. A family-run business since it opened in 1977, this charming restaurant also specialises in fresh seafood. With an impressive menu and views out to sea, you will not regret coming here.
Sleep in:
Scourie Guest House. This is one of the quaintest B&B’s in the area and Pete and Liz are fantastic hosts. All the rooms are cosy and have a personal touch – did I mention that Liz leaves a bit of her homemade fudge for you to try when you arrive? Wonderful!
Fit for a king? If you’re in the lovely little village of Plockton, sleep at Duncraig Castle Bed & Breakfast. With individually-designed rooms overlooking Loch Carron or the castle grounds, this royal adventure will be one that you won’t be forgetting anytime soon.
If you’re in Tongue, you might fancy staying at The Bothy Bed and Breakfast. With marvellous views over Ben Hope, Ben Loyal and Castle Varrich, this small and comfortable B&B is open all year round.