My beautiful Belgrade. To me, it is the most charming, soul-defining city in the former Yugoslavia which leaves your heart longing for more. I love it not only because I grew up there, but because wherever I go, it always draws me back.
It might not be as conventionally pretty as Paris or Rome, but it’s just as special with its unique vibe. It is like a Dali masterpiece: colourful, chaotic, and deliciously full of life. The Serbs are direct, loud and friendly, but have a genuine warmth – the kind that you get at your grandparents’ place when they greet you with a cup of hot chocolate and a big hug on a cold winter’s day.
I could go on and on, but for now, let me leave you with a tingling itch to go there if you haven’t done so already.
Best Places to Visit:
Take a walk down Knez Mihajlova, the pedestrian street in the heart of Belgrade. Always busy, whether it be night or day, summer or winter, it is full of the energy which Belgrade exudes. Dotted with restaurants, cafés and small galleries, Belgraders love to spend their time sipping on coffees in the outdoor cafés and watching the world go by.
No trip to Belgrade is complete without visiting its imposing fortress, Kalemegdan. Founded in the 3rd century BC as Singidunum by a Celtic tribe, it was later conquered by the Romans. It then became a military frontier between the Western and Eastern Roman Empires. Sitting high above the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, Belgrade’s fortress is a stunning place to spend a few hours strolling around or visiting the city’s military museum which is housed inside it. If you time it well, you will be in one of the best places to watch the sun set.
One of the things which makes Belgrade so magical is that it boasts not one, but two major rivers, the Danube and the Sava. To anyone who really wants to get to know Belgrade, go and explore the rivers from each and every side. Go to one of the famous “splavs” for a coffee, lunch or party in the evenings. A lot of the splavs are also nightclubs. This is the best way to see what makes Belgraders so proud of their city.
Rent a bike or take a walk around Ada Ciganlija, the sea of Belgrade. The artificial lake is 8kms long and looks like a Spanish or Italian beach resort in the summer months, when thousands of people rush down to the lake to soak up the sun and swim. You can rent a paddle boat or grab a quick bite to eat in one of the numerous restaurants on both sides of the lake. I would definitely recommend coming here during any season of the year.
Tania’s tip: for the best ice coffee in town, go to Café Ceca, on the right side of the lake, about 500m down from the bungee jump. With an open fireplace in the winter and mulled rakija or wine, this is one of my favourite spots.
Known as the party capital of Europe, Belgrade can easily compete with cities like Amsterdam, Berlin, or London when it comes to nightlife. Whether you’re in the mood for electronic, R&B, pop, metal or local folk music (narodnjaci in Serbian), Belgrade has something to offer every taste. As it’s also a trend-setting city with new venues coming out all the time, it’s best to check out a local website such as this one to see what the “latest” cool places are. Belgrade is a city which never sleeps and clubbing doesn’t usually start before midnight, so make sure you don’t head over anywhere before then and risk standing alone. Remember to also call ahead and make a reservation for a splav or club, as you may risk not getting in if you don’t.
Drink in:
One of my favourite places to go for a drink is Villa Maska. It’s a gorgeous old villa in one of the hippest neighbourhoods of Belgrade which has been transformed into a café and restaurant. Head upstairs to the last floor which has different chairs and sofas at each table – beautifully quirky.
Off the beaten track is another favourite of mine, locally known as the “Ski Staza“, or ski piste. It got its name as it was an old ski piste in the Košutnjak forest. A wooden hut with marvellous views of Belgrade, you will need to get a taxi or get someone to drive you up here. Well worth it.
Head over to any of the numerous cafés on the famous Strahinjića Bana street in the centre. Also known as Silicone Valley, it didn’t get its nickname from the world’s tech giants having a base there. Lively and superficial, it is one of those places that you must say you’ve seen.
Eat in:
Serbs are known for their great love of meat, and their great-tasting meat. In this respect, make sure that you try “pljeskavica” (local hamburgers which are amazing), “ćevapi” (grilled Serbian sausages), and “pečenje” (roast suckling pig or lamb). The Serbs are a tall and muscular people, so portions tend to be rather large. You’ve been warned!
Restoran Kalenić (Mileševska 2) is a down-to-earth place to eat all kinds of local delicacies and meat dishes. Order the stuffed peppers with cheese as a starter – you won’t regret it.
Restoran Franš is a more upscale restaurant which has been around for decades. Serving local Serbian specialities, you cannot go wrong with any of the excellent steaks or grilled meat dishes. If you’re lucky enough to be there during nice weather, the restaurant also has a wonderful garden. A real treat.
Manufaktura is a modern take on traditional Serbian cuisine. All products that they use in their food originate in Serbia and they have an extensive rakija list too. Don’t miss it if you’re in the centre of Belgrade.
Sleep in:
Boasting a prime central location, Square Nine is upscale, elegant and is walking distance to many of Belgrade’s top locations. With Hermès toiletries, fine dining and a wellness centre, it’s clear why this hotel is also one of Belgrade’s best.
Townhouse 27 is another boutique hotel in central Belgrade. Featuring sculptures, prints and photographs from Belgrade sculptor, Gabriel Glid, this chic hotel also features Bang & Olufsen equipment in its rooms.